The problem with most Indian food in this country is it doesn’t respect the palate of its English diners – although the blame may lie not with the restaurateurs but the ten-pints-of lagerand-a-vindaloo man.

Still, Shahin Miah, owner of River Spice, thinks this is a mistake. “People do know what they’re eating,” he says. “Maybe more than the people running the restaurants.”

In an effort to stand out from the crowd, Shahin has introduced an Anglo-Indian element to his menu and, rather than compromising on authentic flavourings, the chef uses his skill to bring English and Indian cuisines together in a gloriously original fusion.

Such examples include the Goan-style lamb shank and the River Spice barbary duck.