VIBRANT, colourful and a little bit different, Ruby Tate’s perfectly epitomises its Kemp Town surroundings. But do not be fooled by its endearing quirkiness – when it comes to fine dining, the seafood restaurant and oyster bar is serious.

“My eventual aim is to get the fish from the sea to the plate within 12 hours,” says owner Allan Love. Grand feasts of lobster, sea bass, sole and monkfish are among the choices but it’s the oyster selection which is proving most popular.

Oyster styles include the Bloody Mary (Rossmore rock oysters, with a splash of vodka, lemon, pulped tomato and Tabasco, £2.25 each) and oysters Rockefeller (£2.30 each) – a popular choice among those who are a tad apprehensive about the slippery suckers.

“We get a lot of what I call ‘oyster virgins’ – those who are afraid of oysters and don’t really know how to tackle them,” says Allan, who named the restaurant after his granddaughter.  “I tell them to try just one,” he adds. “When they do, they swoon.”  All products are sourced locally or bought daily from the finest fish markets. “The oysters coming off the Irish coast are seriously good.

They’re very meaty, sweet and a good size.”  Mains include whole lobster thermidore for £31.50 and fruits de mer for two (whole poached lobster, king prawns, chargrilled prawns, baby squid, mussels, oysters and clams with smoked salmon and dips, £55).  Other options include the whole sea bass served with lemon and caperberry butter, and seared tuna steak with salsa verde. All meals come with vegetables, and side orders are available.

You can pop in for a quick bite from noon to midnight, Tuesdays to Friday. A two-course lunch will set you back £11.95 per head and a set three-course menu is available for £25 per head from 6pm, Sunday to Thursday.

Ruby Tates also has a selection of seafood tapas dishes such as oysters, chargrilled sardines on toast, and tiger prawn tempura.  And you can buy wine and champagne by the bottle or the glass.

“We’re supposed to be fine dining but without the penguins,” continues Allan. “It is very relaxed and can get a bit crazy and lively but it is not at all snotty.

“Clientele-wise, we don’t have a niche market at such – young, old, gay, straight. There are no rules, just people who enjoy great food.”